CONVERSION TYPES:
1. UV/IR blocking bluish filter removal only
(Full Spectrum: Ultraviolet + Visible + H-Alpha + Sulfur II + Infrared)
This is the most unexpensive conversion, most recommended to save money. Having the sensor bare or "naked" the camera will become Full Spectrum (For a complete description of a FS conversion please read option 3). With the bare sensor modification, the sensor distance to the lens bayonet will be adjusted to reach focus to infinity with lenses when a Clip-in body filter like the Astronomik L-2 UV/IR blocking or CLS is attached to the camera body. When combined with a Clip-in filter like the Astronomik L-2 UV/IR blocking or the Clip-in MC Clear glass, the total price of this conversion is less than the internal filters modifications.
Without any glass above the sensor there are no internal reflections coming from a replacement filter. When the stock UV/IR blocking filter is removed, the surface of the sensor is not really naked. There is a layer of glass protecting the micro-lenses and bayer filters on top of the pixels.
2. Enhanced Spectrum Conversion with Optolong Luminance Filter
(Visible + H-Alpha + Sulfur II)
On this conversion the UV/IR blocking bluish filter is removed and replaced by the non-detachable Optolong UV/IR Cut Anti-Reflective filter with enhanced H-alpha and Sulfur II sensitivity. With the permanent installation of this filter, this conversion does not require an additional or external UV/IR Cut filter. The sensor is adjusted to have perfect focus to infinity with lenses. The camera can be used for daylight photography setting the custom white balance with a gray card shot under the specific light source for "In-Camera" white balance correction or with Adobe Camera Raw white balance presets without the need of additional original white balance filters.
Out of focus NIR: With the Enhanced Spectrum modification, depending on the lens, telescope or optical corrector used, some imagers might experience a little bit bloated stars due to the near infrared light slightly out of focus when a refractive optical system does not have at least one ED (Extra-Low Dispersion glass) element. This chromatic aberration could be mitigated with post processing correction using computer software.
3. Full Spectrum conversion with Astronomik Anti-Reflective Clear Glass
(Ultraviolet + Visible + H-Alpha + Sulfur II + Infrared)
The Full Spectrum modification is the best conversion for planetary astrophotography because the possibility of using infrared isolating filters like the Astronomik ProPlanet 742 IR-pass and 807 IR-pass . The infrared wavelength is significantly less susceptible to poor seeing (atmospheric turbulences) and consequently the resulting images are considerably sharper. Expert planetary imagers process planets photos with single line infrared filters as a luminance channel. The non-detachable Astronomik MC Clear glass is permanently installed in front of the sensor replacing the stock UV/IR Blocking bluish filter.
This is the most versatile conversion, is suitable for UV/IR Photography, Regular Photography and Astrophotography. This modification has the same Full Spectrum wavelength sensitivity specifications as the UV/IR Blocking filter removal only modification. The sensor is calibrated for perfect focus to infinity with lenses.
Out of focus Infrared: An additional UV/IR cut filter is required to capture the pictures in visible light. This filter is a must when imaging with telescopes using refractive elements (refractors, catadioptrics, reducers/flatteners, coma correctors, etc.) If light frames are captured without an UV/IR blocking filter you will get bloated stars, because UV and IR light rays focus at different distance from the visible light focal plane.
A luminance filter, or any narrowband filter will cut off Ultraviolet and Infrared Wavelengths.
For daylight or regular photography an additional Original White Balance filter is required. The Astronomik OWB Clip-in filter can be used to correct white balance.
For more information
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